Haute Couture Week: Dior and Chanel Sparkle, Lacroix Missed
By Denise Grayson January 29, 2010
John Galliano. Photo: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com
Haute couture week in Paris has come and gone in a flash; it doesn’t take long to show just 20 main schedule collections. This is the first season without the beloved couturier Christian Lacroix, and while we knew it was coming after the Sheikh’s massive licensing deal fell through in December – one that had was said to be financing the ready to wear and haute couture operations – doesn’t it sting a little? Maybe even a lot? No ridiculously lush embellishments upon lush embellishments; mixing of textures and prints to the point of bordering on eye sore; completely impractical opulent gowns; or his ultra feminine, signature puffball skirts. None of those dreamy minty blue-green embroidered silks and the kind of hair ornaments that could only make sense floating down patterned carpet that leads to nowhere. At the moment, the man himself is busy designing costumes in Paris so he’s not sitting around staring at an empty sketch pad. But that’s little consolation.
Thankfully we still have our beloved Christian Dior and Chanel (let’s not even entertain the notion of a mortal Karl Lagerfeld). Lead by our two greatest and most entertaining living fashion characters, John Galliano and Kaiser Karl, respectively, the collections delivered the dream.
First, Dior. Galliano likes his makeup looks more severe than Joan Crawford wearing a Croydon face lift (that’s a ponytail pulled so tight you look as if your skin has shrunk). But I can never get used to seeing these lovely, fresh faces made harsh to the point of being almost unrecognizable. The eyebrows could not have been more Dietrich and even border on an homage to Divine. As for the looks which are unfailingly akin to costume, we have the Little Bo Peep girls; some equestrian ladies who want to whip you into shape with their tight-fisted crops; and of course those gorgeous, massive gowns – though this time around they’re a bit less massive than we’ve seen before.
And arguably the most entertaining part of any Dior show, the finale where Galliano fights his chronic shyness and inferiority issues and somehow manages to squeak out a bow.
Chanel. Photo: Monica Feudi / Gorunway.com
As for Chanel, Lagerfeld gave us what we love about our favourite legendary fashion house: the tweed suits; lots of tulle and lush bouclé; feminine pastels in pale pink, lilac, greens and blues; odd hairstyles – this time the back centre part of an unusual updo was filled in with a strip of metallic adornments; opulent embellishments; and froth galore – all wrapped up in the usual youthful and pretty package.
The difference this time was jackets paired with longish shorts rather than skirts and trousers; not the most alluring look but it keeps things fresh (though we weren’t complaining, were we?), and liquid metal leather shoes with carved heels over high-sheen opaque tights and matching racing gloves that could have come from Karl’s personal collection (and to be honest, should have stayed there). And surprisingly, monochrome and navy were absent. I was going to say ‘noticeably’ absent but they were hardly missed. He’ll probably send out a parade of models in black and white come March, so if that’s what you want to see you only have to wait a few more weeks. But don’t you want to drown in those bouclé pastels?
And camellias! Did these fabled flowers make an appearance? If so it was certainly clandestine. Possibly the fingers are still sore at Lemarié after last year’s spring camellia extravaganza. There were no multistrands of pearls and chain, and the double Cs seemed to be banished as well in favour of a more elegant and refined image. The accessories were for the hair and hands only, with the exception of some sweetly tulle-wrapped necks.
At the finale, the ever-present Chanel groom, Baptiste Giabiconi, looked a bit like C-3PO in his impossibly shiny gold suit. It was as if all of the energy from the surface of the sun was harnessed into that lamé jacket and pants. And somehow, you have to love that.
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Submitted on January 29, 2010 in Industry News, Reviews.
Denise is a Canadian living in England who is fascinated by the fusing of fashion and art. Her obsession with the details and an insatiable urge to share beautiful discoveries drives her Paris-loving blog, www.TheSwelleLife.com, and recently she opened Swelle Boutique at www.swelleboutique.com which offers exclusive one-off and limited edition dresses and accessories.
Denise Grayson has contributed 59 articles to Models & Moguls.
