Stephen Jones and his Millinery Magic
By Denise Grayson January 15, 2010
Stephen Jones. Photo credit unattributed.
Is there any fashion accessory more pleasing than a great hat? Not only does the hat have deep roots in history and represent a wealth of symbolic significance, it is one of the few fashion items that commands attention without sacrificing modesty (sorry miniskirt, stiletto heels and body-con dress, the reactions you prompt do come at a price). Folks tend to be split over whether or not they are “a hat person,” though one’s opinion of how they look wearing a tidy fedora or a fabulous beret seems to be more about what’s inside their head than what’s on it; a hat makes a bold statement about the wearer and requires a healthy dose of confidence to venture outside wearing one.
So what’s not to love? Hats offer polished perfection to an already well put together look and add instant style to an otherwise nondescript outfit. And there is really nothing cooler than an elderly gent or madam wearing a proper suit and matching proper hat.
Millinery, the art of creating a hat by hand using fine felts, fabric and straw with blocks for shaping, is a practice that dates back to 15th century Milan. Today the technique remains largely unchanged from its original practice and is one of the few garment making processes that hasn’t benefited from technology; therein lies its greatest charm for the hat enthusiast who cherishes Old World craftsmanship over fast fashion.
Hats may no longer be a staple of daily dressing yet their fashion appeal is stronger than ever, thanks to a handful of illustrious milliners, the most accomplished being Britain’s Stephen Jones. His work fuses traditional techniques with his own unique vision to create what are arguably works of wearable art. The Cheshire-born designer is considered by many of fashion’s elite to be the most important milliner of the 20th and 21st centuries. Since he began his design career 25 years ago he has consistently produced extraordinary pieces using his mix of inventiveness and technical expertise. His hats are considered to be amongst the most beautiful in the world by the most daring style icons, one being Anna Piaggi. U.S. Vogue’s Hamish Bowles has admiringly described Jones as “a deft conjurer, who can draw whimsy from a hat. Steeped in couture lore and craft, he nevertheless propels his art into the future with his ceaseless invention and thistledown touch. His genius is to enhance the mystery, allure, and wit of the wearer.” It’s no wonder then that throughout his career Jones’ services have been sought by everyone from rock stars to royalty – Princess Diana was a fan – to you and me.
Anna Piaggi wearing a Stephen Jones hat. Photo credit: Showstudio.com
Jones is regularly called on by the most prestigious fashion houses to create headpieces to complete their most extraordinary fashion week looks. Collaborations include John Galliano for Dior – what would a Galliano show be without a spectacular headpiece? – as well as Vivienne Westwood, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler Jean-Paul Gaultier and Rei Kawakubo. He has also created stage looks for popular entertainers including elaborate headdresses for Kylie Minogue’s Showgirl tour and the tiniest of tricornes for Dita Von Teese’s burlesque shows.
Jones studied his craft at London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins in the late seventies and became known in the club scene for his idiosyncratic style, the centrepiece of which was always one of his distinctive creations. Today the designer is one of his best models thanks to an instantly recognizable look of a hat – usually one of his cleverly angled black top hats or newsboy caps – atop a perfectly smooth head, accessorized with a cheeky smile. Despite his high profile alliances the friendly-faced milliner has made his creations accessible to anyone who desires an exquisitely crafted and conceived hat. In addition to his bespoke ‘Model Millinery’ service which offers personalised, one-off hats for individual clients, he launched Miss Jones, a collection of elegant and luxurious hats for women at price points that begin at £95, and Jonesboy, a capsule collection for men with knitted beanie hats and innovative trilbies. His retail boutique, design studio and workroom are all located in a charming Georgian townhouse in London’s Covent Garden.
Last year Jones was selected to receive the Outstanding Achievement Award at the British Fashion Awards which was established to celebrate the achievement of a designer whose work has had an exceptional impact on global fashion. His body of work is represented in the permanent collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Louvre in Paris, The Fashion Institute of Technology and the Brooklyn Museum in New York, the Kyoto Costume Institute, and the Australian National Gallery.
And so it would seem that sometimes a hat is much more than just a hat. Are the “I’m not a hat person” people now just a wee bit curious?
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Submitted on January 15, 2010 in Who's Who.
Denise is a Canadian living in England who is fascinated by the fusing of fashion and art. Her obsession with the details and an insatiable urge to share beautiful discoveries drives her Paris-loving blog, www.TheSwelleLife.com, and recently she opened Swelle Boutique at www.swelleboutique.com which offers exclusive one-off and limited edition dresses and accessories.
Denise Grayson has contributed 59 articles to Models & Moguls.
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