It Wouldn’t Be Fashion Without You
By Denise Grayson December 5, 2009
What would fashion be without its larger than life, fabulously outrageous characters? Not nearly as fun, and surely there would be far less to talk about. There are clothes, and then there is Fashion – with a capital F. The kind David Bowie sang about and that which Debbie Harry cultivated with Blondie. And Andy Warhol inadvertently manufactured with his flock of protégés at The Factory (fashion will happen when you facilitate the mixing of free-spirited creative types with healthy egos).
These days it seems that regardless of one’s grand achievements everyone wants to be known for being great in fashion. Victoria Beckham, Sean ‘Diddy’ Combs and Gwen Stefani are just a few of the over-achieving stars who want to dress us and be accepted as a peer among fashion’s elite. And surprisingly, the talented hit maker and massive ego-carrying Kanye West has become nothing short of sycophantic in his attempts to win favour with fashion’s most illustrious designers and snag a coveted front row seat at fashion week.
Yet, it seems some were born to make our fashion worlds go ‘round. By simply being their fearless, over-the-top selves these enigmatic and industrious personalities make fashion the provocative, irresistible force it is today:
Karl Lagerfeld. This is merely a formality; I think by now even my father knows why Karl Lagerfeld is famous. The 75 year-old (he’ll tell you 70), monochrome-obsessed creative director of Chanel, Fendi and his own signature labels who employs a Diet Coke butler (you read right) reached cult status thanks to his white ponytail; seemingly permanent sunglasses; fingerless, leather racing gloves; stiff, earlobe grazing collar; and tight jacket and skinny jeans. His look alone speaks volumes, and then he opens his mouth. We’ve been treated to such notable gems as “My sisters were sent away because my mother thought they were boring. I was not boring” and “You’ve got to tell this woman that she needs to be taken away. Her smell is not possible.” Oh, let’s do one more! “I don’t know Heidi Klum. Claudia Schiffer also doesn’t know who she is.” Ouch. And, huh? Exactly.
John Galliano. Is there anything more entertaining than a English Parisian from Gibraltar who sees himself as the star of his brilliant runway shows for Dior and his namesake line – taking his bow at the finale dressed in some kind of costume, holding a pose complete with the flared nostrils only genuine arrogance can induce and an intensely seductive gaze that would have nuns crying in their rosaries – and laughs off the charge like it’s a pair of green polyester pants? That’s not effort, that’s Galliano.
Anna Piaggi. A 78 year-old Italian fashion writer who likes to paint her eyelids bright blue and her cheeks crimson, wears her hair closely cropped and topped with a custom Stephen Jones hat (she’s his muse), with a style of dress that is best described as eccentric, colourful and exuberant, is a no-brainer for inclusion on a Who is Fashion list.
Anna Wintour. Grace Coddington may have stolen the show in the documentary The September Issue but it’s American Vogue’s Editor-in-Chief who wields the most influence on the direction of fashion today. Her approval or absence of it makes or breaks the careers of hopeful designers so it’s no wonder she instils terror with her stoic gaze. And that smooth-as-glass bob of hers is practically supernatural.
Isabella Blow. This former fixture in the high fashion scene may no longer be with us but her influence will reverberate indefinitely through the work of Alexander McQueen and milliner Philip Treacy, both whom she discovered and nurtured. You can also thank her for giving us the lovely and brilliant Sophie Dahl. The British stylist, mentor and muse was best known for her fabulously outrageous hats, custom made for her by Treacy, of course. In fact it was a Treacy hat that adorned her coffin in lieu of flowers when she committed suicide in 2007. Fashion became a little less enchanting when it lost Isabella Blow.
Dita Von Teese. To begin your career in a strip club and then go on to become one of the world’s most influential fashion icons is no small feat. This burlesque performer from Michigan singlehandedly brought back the allure of Old Hollywood glamour with her impeccable 1940s dressing and grooming both on and off-duty. Just about everyone wants to infuse their own look with a bit of Dita beauty and the fashion houses want her in their front row. No one wears vintage Dior like Dita.
André Leon Talley. This fashion giant lives up to his post as American Vogue’s Editor-at-Large. At a towering 6’7” and until fairly recently a very hefty man, he is a sight to behold in his many mink coats and flamboyant outfits.
Daphne Guinness. She of the British family brewing empire of the same name and granddaughter of Diana Mitford just may have the most impressive and enviable collection of haute couture on the planet, for it is clothes with which she chooses to express herself. She seems more at ease being seen than heard yet her presence is not a muted one with her skunk-striped platinum hair and her well-styled, To Die For one-off outfits. She opened Giles Deacon’s S/S 2010 show in Paris at age 41 but its her childhood experiences that make her most intriguing to this writer – she spent her summers holidaying with her family in a Catalan fishing village where Salvador Dalí, Marcel Duchamp and Man Ray were their neighbours. Imagine.
Kate Moss. She may not be Mother of the Year but when it comes to playing to the camera, this British, 35 year-old supermodel continues to endure, despite drug scandals and dubious choices in boyfriends. At any given time she’s the face of several high profile campaigns and she regularly tops the ‘best style’ lists. She has what seems to be a perpetual collaboration with Topshop, and her tendency to shy away from speaking publicly has made her somewhat of an enigma and only bolsters her ‘ultra-cool’ image as most haven’t a clue what she sounds like (you’ll be sorely disappointed when you finally hear her speak). And she was engaged to Johnny Depp. Say no more.
Lady Gaga. Whether she drives you wild or drives you to stick a screwdriver in your ear there’s no question that this young American singer is the most influential force in fashion at the moment. Her avant garde approach to dressing – which appears to have no ‘off’ time – is spawning copycats, directing fashion collections and sparking trends; it’s no longer considered obnoxious to refer to her as ‘the new Madonna’. Thankfully, she has mostly moved on from her leotard/no pants phase and hopefully the more ‘adventurous’ of the female club goers who have been only too keen to emulate that look will soon follow suit and cover up.
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Submitted on December 5, 2009 in Who's Who.
Denise is a Canadian living in England who is fascinated by the fusing of fashion and art. Her obsession with the details and an insatiable urge to share beautiful discoveries drives her Paris-loving blog, www.TheSwelleLife.com, and recently she opened Swelle Boutique at www.swelleboutique.com which offers exclusive one-off and limited edition dresses and accessories.
Denise Grayson has contributed 59 articles to Models & Moguls.
